Aqua Universalis forte

by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Fragrance Profile

Concentration: Eau de parfum

Olfactory Family: Floral, Musky

Top Notes: Lemon, Bergamot

Heart Notes: Fresh white flower accord

Base Notes: Absolute of rose from Morocco, Absolute of jasmine from Egypt, Light musks

Manufacturer’s Description: A more pronounced version of Aqua Universalis forte adds charm to this bright fresh fragrance. Aqua Universalis Maison Francis Kurkdjian eau de parfum offers a magnetic afterglow, sparkle and intensity which are heightened by green bergamot from Calabria, jasmine and rose absolutes from Egypt and Morocco, and light woods underscored by powerful musk. A musky floral perfume which vibrates on the skin like gold under the summer sun, elegantly robing men and women’s skin with its bright and intense trail.

Olfactory Notes

Jasmine from Egypt: Known by its Latin name as jasminum grandiflorum, the jasmine used in perfumery is surprisingly potent and multi-faceted, ranging from orangey-floral, solar, fruity (banana, strawberry, apricot), to animalic and spicy. Jasmine has an astonishingly complex structure for such a fragile flower that needs to be harvested very early in the morning before the sun spoils its fragrance. Its scent can only be extracted with volatile solvents and is very expensive due to its low yield of essential oil. Its kaleidoscope of nuances blends perfectly with other flowers as well as woods or ambery accords.

Musks: Initially extracted from Tibetan musk deers, natural musk has been banned in perfumery since 1973. Synthetic molecules designed to replace it appeared at the end of the 19th century, so today there is a wide selection of musky notes with an olfactory palette ranging from fruity, to woody to animal facets. Musks are very persistent and relatively non-volatile base notes. They have been extensively used in detergents and fabric softeners, and are commonly referred to as white musks because they evoke the scent of soft, fluffy clean linen, and conjure up a feeling of tenderness and comfort suitable for all kinds of fragrances. With their inimitable mellowness highly appreciated by the general public, today musky notes are present in the vast majority of women’s and men’s perfumes.

Bergamot from Calabria: Known for its fruity edge in Earl Grey tea, Citrus Bergamia is widely used in perfumery because its fresh, sparkling top notes bring a kind of “smile” to the perfume. Its oil is obtained by cold expression of the fruit’s peel. Southern Italy specializes in the cultivation of this citrus fruit, used in the composition of eau de Cologne and of many women’s and men’s fragrances, with fresh, floral and aromatic facets unfolding and stretching all the way into the heart of the perfume.

Bouquet of fresh white flowers: It is a bouquet of aerial flowers, just picked and barely open, imagined by Francis Kurkdjian. To do this, he reconstituted a seringa, also called the poets’ jasmine, with a scent oscillating between orange blossom and fresh jasmine. Then he reproduced the effects of two other mute flowers, the luminous freesia and lily of the valley, and blended them together. The green lily of the valley note magnifies citrus fragrances and leaves an airy floral sensation.

Lemon from Italy: Originally from the Far East, the lemon tree was introduced to the Mediterranean basin during the Crusades in the Middle Ages. Today, the regions of Calabria and Sicily in southern Italy are the main suppliers for perfumery. Its oil is obtained by cold expression of its peel using mechanical processes. Its bright color announces its joyful fragrance, with green, zesty, rising top notes. Its crisp, lively effect is often found in men’s colognes and eaux fraîches. It also gives a beautiful lift to floral sillages.

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